The DMZ, In Pictures

John and I visited the DMZ together. We took a tour that did not include the JSA, because those are primarily not on the weekends and don't allow you to see much of the DMZ itself. While the JSA would be cool to check out some time, I'm glad that I got to see so much of the DMZ because, well, it's actually a very beautiful area that has basically converted into a nature reserve, a pretty rare thing in the hustle and bustle of the South Korea.

The main thing is that the DMZ is not scary. Nobody in South Korea anticipates war or an escalation of conflict with the North. Nobody really anticipates reunification, either, and younger generations often don't want it due to the economic impacts it would have on the South. On several occasions I've heard from people in the West that things were happening in the North, because they aren't news here. My mother was visibly disappointed in me for going to the DMZ, but all it is, is another tourist destination here.

This bridge is sometimes used to exchange prisoners.

People left mementos at the bridge.

a train that was attacked

This picture shows the serenity of the non-civilian zone.

This picture shows the craziness right on the edge of the non-civilian zone.

memorial to US troops in the Korean War

buff statue

another memorial statue

a diorama of the DMZ in one of the visitor centers

DMZ tourist information center

We got to have a break from the busy day and relax in this beautiful park, which ended in barbed wire and signs warning of land mines.

North Korea in the distance

This train station was built during the warming of relations between the two Koreas in the late 90s. It's never been used, but is meticulously maintained.

planes on display

Some of the rhetoric we were exposed to was a bit bombastic.

North Korean products for sale (all black market, of course)

One of the infiltration tunnels that was discovered leading into South Korea. You can go down them; it's a tight fit.

the beautiful DMZ and North Korea behind that

John, me, and the DMZ

White Horse Ridge monument

This is Private Lee, who told us about the battle of White Horse Ridge. He studied abroad in Shippensburg.

Thursdays

Pretty much every Thursday I meet Jenny and Amanda for chiropractic care. Afterwards we go out for dinner and sometimes a beer or two and bitch about our jobs, adjummas, and how the water here is destroying our hair.

It's quite necessary sometimes, and I'm very thankful to have them.

Tire Swing of Sorts

When we were in Jecheon, at the oriental medicine park, we found a playground. So first we played on the zip line and the random bouncy things that exist here in Korea. We had fun laughing and goofing off while trying not to scare all the children away. As the sun set, they left on their own. Eventually we found a sort of tire swing, except bigger and with net across the middle.

The sun went down as we lay in opposite directions on the swing, hands clasped between us. We kept the swing rocking gently and talked about nothing. It was pretty much perfect.

I'm torn about writing blogs like this, because I want to remember these moments, but I don't want to cheapen them by telling everyone about them. It's hard to write a blog and keep the right balance between public interface and diary. In a certain way, though, it's a lie to not write about big parts of my life. I think a good way to do that might be to write about little moments of big parts.

That was already six weeks ago.

John on the random bouncy thing

An Ode to my Dexter

When I went to get my two rat boys, Smokey came running up to me and jumped all over my hands, popcorning around like the crazy little boy he was. I said that I would take Smokey, and then he ran over and grabbed hold of his brother. When I tried to separate them, they wouldn't let go of each other. So Dexter came home with me, too. While Smokey was an active, tenacious rat, Dexter was always more reserved. He liked cuddles and kisses, but he mainly liked naps and being chill.

Smokey spent his life bothering Dexter, laying on top of him from the beginning until the end of their lives together. Dexter never really seemed to mind all that much, though.

One thing that Dexter definitely was, was smart. When presented with a new object or situation, he would cautiously but thoroughly examine it until he was satisfied that it wouldn't bother him, and then go back to sleep. Mandula, my old roomie's cat, once got into my room while the rats were out. While Smokey pinned her and pulled out her stomach fluff, Dexter ingeniously hid himself between my pillow and the seam of its case, emerging calmly some time later to retrieve a snack.

While Dexter was certainly a clever and cautious rat, when the mood struck him, he could be quite the adventure patkany.

He was incredibly food-motivated, which helped him to become a giant hulk of a bear rat.

After I left Budapest, Dexter lived with my beautiful friend Magdalena and her husband Bela for the last eight months of his incredibly long rattie life. Smokey passed away in September, and Dexter enjoyed his last six months of life as king of Magdalena's apartment, stealing food and squirreling it away in her sofa, digging in her garden, and, when his legs started to go, receiving daily massages and being placed on pillows to nap. He passed away an old, happy rat after a long life full of love.

Rest in Peace, my sweet Deki. I was so lucky to have had you as a pet, my stoic and clever fluffy. I like to think, when I look at the pictures of you towards the end, that you knew that you had been loved, and were content.

Blah.

It's humid and in the 80s, and they just closed all the windows and doors.

Everyone in my office is having a conversation at the top of their lungs. I have my headphones on literally as loud as my computer allows, and I can barely hear the lecture I'm trying to listen to.

My feelings are hurt and I'm cranky.

Lunch consisted, essentially, of seaweed, cabbage, and white rice.

I'm being forced to go to a work dinner. We're eating samgyetang, the chicken soup consisting of a whole chicken in boiling broth.

Blah.
(Proper blog post to follow tomorrow.)

Going Crazy

I think, in a small way, I might be going crazy. I'm certainly giving in to the crazier aspects of my personality a bit too freely. You see, it's the third week of June. I won't be Stateside for another 68 days. That's a long time away, really. But I'm in a bit of a panic over the whole thing.

Every day I trawl Craigslist. I remade an Americorps profile. I reworked my resume, created a LinkedIn profile, and have used that to apply for a few jobs. Ok, that sounds a bit type A, maybe, but not too crazy yet, right? Just wait.

I have extensively searched the part-time job listings in various towns, just in case I get one job. I have researched what my car insurance rates would be on various cars available for purchase in various towns that I have options in. Never mind that these cars are available now and I definitely won't be buying any of them. I just, you know, want to know. I have looked at the apartments and rooms available in these towns, as well. I don't mean I've given them a quick once over to get a general idea of quality and prices. I mean I have looked at dozens upon dozens of listings. I have figured out what the commute would be like between these potential apartments and the potential jobs they are associated with.

But what else am I supposed to do? Just relax and wait until a more appropriate time? That feels impossible right now. I've lined up, at least in a preliminary way, every single job I've had since college at least three or four months ahead of time, but usually more like six or seven. I'm only about three months away now. It feels so soon.

It's starting to feel almost ritualistic. I am uncertain, and I hate it.

Anniversary in Seoul

In mid-April, John and I celebrated our six month anniversary. We decided to be uncool and actually celebrate it, using it as an excuse to spend a night in Seoul and go to the DMZ. So we met on Saturday morning and proceeded to do some more sight-seeing, trying to see some things that we hadn't seen during Seollal. So we checked out another castle complex...

John took this picture of me. Best photo I've ever taken? It's possible.

John in the castle. He's the handsome one in the foreground.

There was a lovely free art museum inside the castle complex with this fountain outside of it. I like the contrasts of this shot, with the ultra-modern City Hall and various skyscrapers in the background.

palace gate

visited the Jogyesa temple to see it all decked out for Buddha's upcoming birthday...

me in front of the temple

poppies

paper lanterns for Buddha's birthday

a water scene, in paper

elephant lantern

The temple guardians stand below hundreds of lanterns.

There was some kind of a footrace about to start (they later ran past us). I love the monks in their traditional garb with trainers and race tags.

The old temple tree peeks out above the lanterns.

Pikachu!

and did some wandering.

Cheonggyecheon Stream in the spring

far from home

Yi Sunshin in Gwanghwamun Square

King Sejong in Gwanghwamun square

We also had a great dinner at an American-style diner before finding our guesthouse in Gangnam. We made an early night of it since we had to wake up early on Sunday morning to head to the DMZ.

I can't even explain how exciting country gravy is when you live in Korea.

flashy buildings in Gangnam