Tuesday, December 31, 2013

A Poem, on Deskwarming

How much time can one person spend
     on Facebook
          or Buzzfeed
               or cooking blogs
                    or Slate
                         or wherever?
On Monday I cut circles out of cardboard.
Today I painted them:
Gold, Silver, and Brown
     (to pass for Bronze).
Next I will glue ribbons to them.
               Also,
I watch television
     on my computer.
Then I go on the internet

                         yet

                         again.

(Forgive me this sarcastic exercise.)

Monday, December 30, 2013

My Monday Posts Have Grown Boring

Everything I want to write about on a Monday seems too personal to write about. The need for self-preservation does rear its ugly head when one is alone and left to one's own thoughts. It doesn't really matter how secure, settled, and content one feels at other times. That might even make it worse.

The fact remains that I'm transient, that my life is painfully and wonderfully unstructured and free. I have no idea what I want to do with myself. I love teaching *under certain circumstances* and I love writing *about some things* and I love traveling *in a particular way.* What the sweet hell will I be like when I'm older and even more set in my ways? Thank God I did travel and push myself out of my boundaries, because otherwise I'd be a hermit for sure.

So I have these ideas. These grand goddamned plans. But no real steps are taken towards them, because that would be terrifying.

(It's not that I don't think my life is real life. It totally is, and thus far I wouldn't change the choices I've made. It's just that there is... more? something else? The word is hard to find. Whatever it is, I'm starting to want that.)

And the hilarious thing is how well I seem to trick everyone. Everybody seems to think I'm this capable, rational adult. People think I'm a good teacher. Friends and colleagues trust me to organize things and come to me for help. Smart people (much smarter than me, for sure) take my advice! (The really funny thing is I was just telling someone to not worry, that we all feel like frauds. And here I go. I can't even have original crises.)

I really should not be left alone. I literally have not spoken a word out loud today. 8 hours to myself and I freak out.

This part is not a freak out: I think I want to go home. Home, as in the USA. Not right now, and I don't know for how long. I'm not sure where or what I would do there, though I do have ideas. There. I've written it down, so now it's time to make plans instead of just thinking thoughts.

Today I made 72 4-cm diameter cardboard circles. I seriously underestimated the amount of time that would take, though it probably would have taken less had I not stopped every few circles to do absolutely nothing on the internet.

Thursday, December 26, 2013

One, Two, One-point-two

Sometimes, I just want things to be simple. I want things to fall into my lap, and be easy. And, sometimes, they are. Sometimes they are beautifully easy. You hold them gently in your cupped hands, staring at them with wonder, afraid to blink, scared to believe they exist. You touch them, ever so softly, and find that they push back under your fingers, tangible. Real.

On a totally unrelated note, I've been relying on Youtube for music since the untimely death of my external hard drive in August. I was feeling like listening to some Shakira, so now I'm watching those videos. Sweet. Baby. Jesus. Her new (to me) videos are some of the sexiest things I've ever seen. Even the one with literal break dance fighting.

On a semi-related note, after I had my monthly soul-crushing sob alone in my classroom today (stupid Christmas, stupid womanhood, stupid uncertainty), my coteachers noticed my state. They all surged into action. I now have an action committee. They really are beautiful people.

Wednesday, December 25, 2013

Jimjilbang

I spent Christmas day with my friend Tiffany, eating crazy pretzels for breakfast, bingsu for lunch, and Burger King for dinner. We paid a quick visit to the beach this morning, but spent most of the day at the spa. Now, in Korea, spa doesn't mean what it means in the States.

Basically, it's the 70s here in Korea. If you know what I mean.

I also endeavoured to remove every cell of dead skin from my body with the help of a pink scratchy rag and, given that I still glow a faint pink, I think I did an ok job of it. I sauna-ed for a bit, and spent some time in the outdoor rock spa as well. There is just something about being naked outside, particularly in the winter, that makes me feel calm and connected to the world. (Seriously; I'm not being snide there.)

So it was a good day, and I'm not sad any more. Which means that today's plans of distraction did their job. Success!
outside the train station upon arriving in Busan

Haeundae beach

on the train home

Tuesday, December 24, 2013

A Blog that Evolved in a Surprising (?) Way

As I get older, I feel things harder. More intensely. This is somewhat upsetting.

It's Christmas Eve, and it's my first Christmas away from home. I'm pretending that it's not happening. I have tomorrow off work, so Tiffany and I are going to Busan. We're renting a love motel and drinking wine while watching movies tonight. Tomorrow we'll spend the day at Spa World before heading home in the evening. I'll make some phone calls tomorrow morning, others tomorrow night, and still others Thursday morning... adjusting to different schedules on the other side of the world.

I won't open any presents. I won't eat any cookies. I won't cling shrieking to my father's back as we tear across the frozen pond, Otto chasing us, ears tucked in a high-speed, low-drag configuration. I most certainly will not watch It's a Wonderful Life. There won't be shrimp for dinner tonight, or kielbasa for breakfast tomorrow, or any pierogies at all. I won't go to Nayaug Park and laugh at the monstrosities of Christmas light hubris. I won't run out into the cold night with no coat to take pictures of the Christmas house, pictures that I already have from years and years before but feel compelled to take just the same.

Of course, I might not have done those things even if I'd been in the States. This Christmas would have been different.

Some of my officemates brought in chicken and pizza, so we ate that. I didn't have the heart (or the vocabulary) to tell them that I'd never eaten meat on Christmas Eve before. So I ate it.

I'm not Catholic anymore, I don't think. I certainly don't attend mass, and I don't hold with the teachings of the church. I guess I'm one of those super-typical lapsed Catholics. But things like eating meat on holy days still sit wrong with me. It's hypocritical and silly of me to feel that way, but there it is. I still feel that rush of anticipation before I enter a church, and I still feel God glaring down at me while I'm inside, demanding to know where I've been.

This weekend I wound up spending a few minutes inside of a church. Not a Catholic one, but still. It was the first time I'd been inside a church for reasons other than tourism in years. I guess I attended mass a few times while working in Spain, but I spent that time shushing children, and was obligated to attend, so it doesn't actually count. I'm not sure when I last attended Christmas mass with my family: definitely not last year, and I don't think the year before that, either. But then I was going to not cause a fuss, and I didn't participate in the communion, so I don't think that actually counts, either. I think the last time I willingly entered a church for the purposes of religion was for Ash Wednesday service in 2012. Then, I sat like an interloper, listening to the service in a language I spoke, but not quite well enough, and slipped out before the ashes were actually administered, feeling greasy and guilty. Before that, I have no idea.

Not that my few minutes inside of a church this weekend count as going to church. But it was still a little bit strange, and it got me thinking, and feeling.

Plus, it's Christmas.

One of my happiest memories is sitting in a series of Christmas Eve masses, sitting in the semi-dark, and all of a sudden the lights would come on, and the congregation would surge to its feet as one, and everyone would sing. Joy to the world! Joy to young Lauren, at least.

Generally, I deride religion. It leads to so much silliness, and suffering, and just general close-minded awfulness. But I do miss that certainty, that feeling of calm, the ritual of my prayers before bed. I miss the community of mass: everyone, all around the world, reading the same words in their own tongue each weekend, taking the same meal, reciting the same creeds. I miss that connectedness.

I still feel it. I feel it when I lock eyes with a stranger and feel their soul touch mine. I feel it in nature. I feel it with couchsurfing. I feel it when I touch my friends and loved ones. I feel it when a warm breeze caresses my cheek. I feel it in kindness and sadness. It's just less predictable now. I have to chase it a bit harder, and catch it a bit faster when it dances, fleeting, in the corner of my eye. I have to hold onto it a bit tighter.

So maybe I don't believe in the Church. But I certainly believe in love, and I definitely believe in people, and please trust that I believe in you.

Monday, December 23, 2013

Camp Book

Merry Christmas to me! Today I received a coteacher who can speak English (for a limited time only, but I'll take what I can get), a box from my mom full of snowboots and chocolate, and my camp book in from the printer! What a labor of love: 50 pages, tons of text, SO MUCH unseen editing work, images, graphics, etc. Four days of camp in a little booklet. I'm so proud.

the title page and my Santa hat
camp schedule
border crossing dialogues and some of the countries that we'll visit
codes
Spanish meals

Thursday, December 19, 2013

Wasting Time

Every two weeks, we have to update and scan our work computers. This is a six-step process, each step containing a series of smaller sub steps. All in Korean.
My coworkers could do this for me, being that they speak Korean, in three minutes. But every two weeks I have to do it. And it takes me about two hours as I click on buttons that I don't understand.
Click. Red.
Click. Red.
Click. Red.
Literally hours later... Click. Green.

Wednesday, December 18, 2013

Feeling Better

Is there anything worse than getting sick? I always feel as if my body has betrayed me. (Though actually in this instance I sort of betrayed my body. I certainly have been overdoing it with the stress, and not balancing that with the proper amount of vegetables and exercise. It's no wonder that I fell into the sneaky grasp of the ear infection monster.)

On the other hand, getting better after even a short illness shines a bright light on my own luckiness, the kind that I normally forget about. I can breathe! Air flows into my nose and gives me the power to go about my day without getting exhausted and light-headed! How damned amazing is that?

I'm lucky in other ways. I have some incredible friends. Two friends visited me (well, Daejeon, not just me) this weekend. I met them at the train station and was immediately crushed into one of those hugs that sort of hurts while simultaneously smashing all your broken pieces back where they belong. After dropping them at their hotel, I went and had dinner with my coteacher and her husband. The food was not that awesome, but the invitation, the kind welcoming warmth of it, was keenly felt. Then it was out again, for drinks and noraebang (karaoke) with all my favorite people in Korea: a super fun night.

Sunday morning I lay on my warm floor, the sun peeking in through my too-sheer curtains, all wrapped up. I dozed in and out of focus, too content and calm to do anything except listen (I barely remember what to, which goes to show how truly my focus had gone) and watch dust motes waft glowing around the room. My muscles relaxed, my jaw unclenched, and I melted into a little limp puddle. It's so rare for me to feel calm like that. It was really hard for me to drag myself out into the real world again.

Tuesday, December 17, 2013

Diligence

In Korea, you are expected to work. If you are not dead, then you are at work. My coteacher is like 14 months pregnant, and she's at work, wheeling about in her desk chair and hitting the students on the head with papers when they misbehave. (I'll miss her so.)

So I have an ear infection (granted, this is a self-diagnosed ear infection since the doctor wouldn't even look in my damned ear yesterday when I went complaining of severe ear pain, but since I've had an ear infection at least yearly for my entire life, I feel confident of this judgement). I'm congested as hell and can barely speak. But I'm at work! My coteachers tried to send me back down to the nurse's office to rest, but I insisted that I can go to class and watch the "How to Train your Dragon" Christmas special. So I'm skipping the first two lessons, where the kids are actually learning, and sitting in my office blowing my disgusting nose, coughing pathetically, and blogging. I'll "teach" from 10:40-12:10, eat lunch, teach again from 13:10-13:50, and then go sleep in the nurse's office until it's time to go home.

In the meantime, I'm sure I'll infect one of my coteachers with some sort of horrifying funk. Will it be the pregnant one, the one with a three-month-old baby, or the one with an immunodeficiency?

I was not a fan of Hungary's policy of "Oh, you've got a cold? Stay home for two weeks." But I have to say, I'm not a fan of Korea's "Oh, you've got a cold? Come to work and then do nothing!" policy either. What's wrong with staying home for a day or two and actually getting better?

Monday, December 16, 2013

Nothing to Say

Except I have a million things to say, really. Too many things, all jumbled up together in my mind. I've had this window open since I got home this afternoon, and I got home early because it turns out I have an ear infection. I've kept returning to stare at it. I've just got too many thoughts right now, all disorganized in my head, pushing and jostling at each other.

So I guess I'll go back to bed.

Friday, December 13, 2013

7 Photos for (the rest of) Kyoto

I've already talked about Sangusangendo Temple and the Karamon Gate of Nishi-Honganji, but what else did I do during my day in Kyoto? Well, as always, I mainly walked around. Mainly I looked at my map and walked to the next thing that appealed to me. So I checked out some temples, some markets, and a cemetery. I bought a few things, mainly from an artist that created the most adorably whimsical pictures of wee bunnies having adventures. I also ate udon and sashimi that I watched be cut from the side of a fish in a fishmonger's. Here is a bit of what I saw.

lily pads at the Toji temple grounds
one of the buildings in the Nishi-Honganji complex
a gate in the Kiyomizu-dera complex
more of the Kiyomizu-dera complex
overlooking the city
Hi!
udon

Wednesday, December 11, 2013

Rant. Not *entirely* safe for work.

Huuuuuu, have I got a temper on me. (Cue my family deadpanning a "You don't say?")

So, first of all, camp. In January I'm going to have to lead a four-day camp twice. We'll be using the same camp both times, so I just have 16 hours of lessons to plan. I was told that I should pick a theme, and prepare fun activities for the kids to do. Now, silly Lauren, I assumed that being given almost no direction or guidance meant that I had pretty broad freedom to plan what I wanted, with the normal expectations regarding cost, safety and appropriateness.

*Excuse me while I go laugh hysterically for a bit. And I'm using the original definition of hysteria there. (Well, not the one about women being sexually unfulfilled, I guess, but the "emotionally unhinged" one.)*

Ok, I'm back. As it turns out, there were all sorts of expectations on camp! Like, really incredibly detailed wants and expectations. Which I was supposed to know psychically! Now, for one thing, my idea of "fun educational activities" is apparently totally off. Because, in my mind, both of those descriptors are valid. Here, though, I'm apparently expected to just preside over absolute chaos, as the students (fifth and sixth graders!) finger paint, make sandwiches on their desks, and play with balloons.

Those aren't me being snide. Those are real things that I apparently should have planned for these adolescents.

I planned a Eurorail themed camp with cross-curricular activities. The plan is to make passports and then "travel" to different countries. In Hungary we'll do paper art, in Sweden we'll learn about the Aurora Borealis, in Spain we'll make tapas, and so on. I was pretty darn pleased with what I created. I thought it was educational, interesting, mostly fun. I was excited to teach it and I thought the kids would like it, too.

Here's the thing. I don't buy into the whole "learning should be super fun all the time" educational concept. I think learning should be interesting, compelling, rewarding... and often fun, sure. But the sad fact of life is that life is not super happy fun times all the time. Life is waiting in line, buying the boring healthy cereal, staring at your horrible work computer as it takes three minutes to complete a google search, and so on. So yeah, sorry kids, but sometimes you have to sit through three minutes of boring exposition so that you can have the context to justify spending an hour-and-a-half building castles and then staging battles. I think the trade-off is pretty fair, but apparently those kids are going to just slit their wrists from the boredom of taking a second to consider whether a square is stronger than a circle and why.

And here's the other thing. If what was wanted was a totally fun camp totally lacking in any sort of pedagogical justification, I could have planned that camp. I would have rolled my eyes, but I would have planned it because I'm used to just doing what I'm told after this many years abroad. But don't tell me that I can do whatever I want, and that it should be nicely educational, and then expect balloon volleyball. I have a damned degree in this stuff, and you never let me use it, so don't tease me with that carrot and then replace the carrot with disorganized, non-contextualized finger painting.

Ok. So that's camp. Why don't you go get a nice cup of tea?

Then there is my landlady. Who is totally spying on me, because she has sent me messages stating exactly how often and, much more creepily, at what hours certain people are in my flat. With those messages has come the statement that she knows that Americans have more flexible morality, but that I'm in Korea now, and that I would do well to pay attention to Korean standards of morality. (She also flipped out because I lent a chair to my neighbor. Which, I mean, I paid a freaking enormous security deposit, so if the chair gets damaged, take it out of that.)

So I'm fairly certain that she's been coming into my flat without warning or permission. Which is totally not allowed, even here. At the very least, she is watching the CCTV for me like a hawk.

Regardless, she is not my mother, nor my priest. So what I do (quietly and in a nondisruptive fashion) in my own apartment is none of her business. I could have ten people in here having orgies, and as long as we don't disturb the neighbors or break the furniture, she can go suck it. So, yes, there is one gentleman caller over here somewhat often now. If that makes her so angry, and if she cares so much about some misguided morality, then she shouldn't rent to foreigners! Problem solved! In the meantime, I'll go about having my sweet and non-scandalous relationship, and please leave me alone, crazy witch.

I'm willing to bet so much money that she hasn't said a word to my male Korean neighbor who watches really loud porn and masturbates loudly at all random hours of the day and night. I despise the foreigner/female double standard so much.

One last thing. I promise.

My coworkers are forcing me to teach singing. Not to use songs to teach vocabulary or do exercises, but just to spend one forty-minute lesson learning a single Christmas pop song. As one friend figured out, that's going to be, at a conservative estimate, 220 minutes of Mariah Carey. Nobody should have to live through that. I explained that I wasn't comfortable teaching singing, and maybe they could lead the lesson, or we could watch a movie, but no. Nope. They want me to do it. And it has to be singing, and it has to be pop Christmas music, not even proper carols.

I have not asked to not do a single thing all school year. You'd think the one time I do that request would be honored, but you'd be mistaken.

I'm so angry today. It's beautiful outside. The snow is falling in big flakes that flock the trees. But even that can't cheer me up.

Tuesday, December 10, 2013

Not Blogging Today

If I blogged today, it would just be swear words.

So, here. A lovely song that nobody reading this will understand. This was actually Hungary's Eurovision entry last year. I did not like it at the time, but it's grown on me for sure.


Nincs most más, csak a kedvesem, az én kedvesem, ő
Bárhol jár, az úgy jó nekem, az úgy jó nekem, mert
Mindig rám talál, az én kedvesem, az én kedvesem
Úgy dúdolná: Ez így jó nekem, ez így jó nekem

Monday, December 9, 2013

Kyoto's Karamon Gate

The Nishi-Honganji Temple ("Western Temple of the Original Vow") Gate sits tucked down an alleyway in Kyoto. You walk down it, surrounded by plain tan walls, and then you catch sight of the Karamon Gate, or Chinese Gate. It was constructed in 1573 and just drips with detail. I think I stood looking at it for a full ten minutes.





Friday, December 6, 2013

Teacher Trip

I'm about to depart on an overnight trip to an island with most of the teachers from my school. Here is the schedule, kindly translated (in brief) for me:

Friday
3:30 Departure
5:00 Arrive and settle in
5:30 Raw Fish Dinner (yum!)
7:00 Party

Saturday
8:00 Breakfast
9:00 Bus
9:30 Forest Time
10:20 Bus
11:00 Walk Among the Reeds (sounds poetic)
11:50 Bus
12:00 Lunch
1:00 Bus
1:10 Fabric Museum
2:10 bus
2:30 Bird Exhibit
3:30 Bus
3:50 Market
4:30 Bus
6:00 Arrive Home

Will I wind up drunk on this teacher trip, as I have on all others abroad? Will the bus be a karaoke bus? Will the raw fish be the still-wiggling octopus so popular here? Will I fall into a body of water? Check back on Monday for the answers to these and other pressing concerns.

Yay, a rant post!

(I can't embed at work, just click.)

This video just breaks my heart.

Is it any surprise that young people, and young girls in particular, are so obsessed with the way they look? Or that they think how they look doesn't measure up? In a world filled to the brim with images of perfection, how is real life supposed to compare? I'm not going to go into the whole photoshop rant. It's been done, and it can be found ad nauseum on the internet.

I would be absolutely terrified to raise daughters. I mean, the thought of raising children in general is a pretty scary one. But daughters, man. How do people go about that these days? It's all a terrifyingly fine line to walk. Girls can be anything they want to be... but you don't want to lie to them, either. How do you teach a girl that she should never walk home alone with earbuds in without terrifying her? How do you teach her to keep herself fit and healthy without making her feel ugly? How do you encourage her to study what she wants without pushing an agenda? And so on and so forth.

When I was a kid, I certainly thought other kids were ugly. But now, as an adult (and I think especially as an educator), I don't think there is a single kid on this earth that is ugly. Kids are beautiful! But goodness me, I can understand where they're coming from.

Thursday, December 5, 2013

Masochism

Looking out the window at the thick, soupy haze that is covering the square concrete buildings of 전민동, I decided to google image search "Christmas Budapest."

Yeah, that was a bad choice. Most csak vágyom a forralt borra, a kürtõskalácsra, és egy kis somlóira.

Don't get me wrong, I dig it here. But there aren't Christmas markets, so there is absolutely no socially acceptable way for me to while away an afternoon drinking mulled wine from plastic cups and eating liver sausage. The streets don't twinkle with lights dripping from every tree. The smell of chestnuts and cinnamon don't fill the air. Snow doesn't crunch under my feet and children don't give me gifts of mandarins studded with cloves. Nobody is singing carols or force-feeding me gingerbread or even (shudder) beigli. I don't have a stove, so I won't be making mountains of cookies to bring into work. There are no advent wreaths to roll my eyes at in class.

I guess I just miss walking up to people I know and kissing them twice on the face. That feels much more Christmas-y than bowing. 

Wednesday, December 4, 2013

Twinge

I feel a small twinge of perverse satisfaction when I screw with the Korean system. I just sat down on the bus next to a man who is older than me. I sat fully down, rather than half sitting on the edge of the seat. As a result, he had to *gasp* actually close his thighs and sit like a normal person. I can feel his displeasure and I do not care. It's six in the evening, dude. You don't get two seats to yourself, even if you are a middle-aged man.

Tuesday, December 3, 2013

Numbers

I had a whole day of deskwarming today (the kids were writing finals). So I wasted a lot of time on facebook, stole cardboard boxes from around the school, and ate many mandarins. I also graded the third grade tests (is there anything in the world more soothing than grading multiple-choice tests with a wax pencil?) and planned a bit more for camp. The most important thing I did today, though, was to write up my Christmas cards.

I'm sad that I won't be delivering them in person this year, but I think the fact that Christmas is such a non-event here will help me to forget about the sadness.

Writing the addresses and grading the tests, I realized that I've almost entirely stopped doing Hungarian-style numbers now. My ones are straight more often than they are hooked, and my nines don't look like gs anymore. I'm still struggling to adjust to the closed Korean four, but it's happening. That sort of makes me sad, too. Isn't it sort of funny, how even something as basic as how we write numbers can change in a new place?

Monday, December 2, 2013

Blogs

Aren't blogs a funny thing? Who decided that it would be a good idea to keep a diary, but publicly, on the internet?

My weekend:
Chicken, tv, sleep.
Conference, dinner, wine, more sleep.
Burrito, dog walking, dog escaping, dog catching, bleeding on the bus.
Grinning like an idiot.

I can't seem to stop with the grinning.